How To Properly Maintain Scalp Care With Protective Styles.

It’s almost that time of year again. We just came out of a really hot summer and may still be rocking our protective styles. Now it’s officially fall ya’ll! What does that mean? It automatically means cooler weather, less humidity, silk presses, and braids.

There’s been great debate as to whether or not protective styling does more harm than good. The majority of us “put our hair up” simply because we want to give our hair a break. We’re tired of trying to manage it every day and just want to leave it alone so it can “grow”. Let’s talk about three ways you can get the most out of your protective styles!

What’s Proper Scalp Care?

The best analogy I can give is to liken our scalp to the soil and our hair to the leaves from a plant. Anyone who loves to garden knows the importance of having good soil. The soil sets the foundation as to whether or not the plant will be healthy. The same goes for our scalp. Product companies spend billions and billions of dollars on marketing ads for conditioners, serums, and the likes. The truth of the matter, proper growth starts at the dermal papilla of the hair. The dermal papilla is responsible for inducing hair growth, regulate follicle pigmentation, and creating the right environment for growth.'

We’ve been taught improperly cleansing of the scalp! Just like our face and skin, our scalp needs to be constantly exfoliated. When you exfoliate the scalp you’re allowing the hair follicles to become unclogged and promote growth. The hair and scalp must be treated differently.

A person who has a garden does the same thing to their soil. Except they use a tool such as a plow or a hoe to help teal the soil.

How Often Should I Cleanse My Hair and Scalp?

This would depend on what type of protective style you opted to wear. If you’re wearing braids, locs, or crochet braids, then it’s definitely easier to get to your scalp. In my professional opinion, I always suggest a minimum of at least once a week. If you’re worried about fuzzing up your braids, I would suggest looking for products that have a nozzle applicator. One such company is Girl and Hair, which was formulated and designed by a black dermatologist Dr. Camille Verovic. Another way you can deep cleanse the scalp is by using a product called Scalp Therapy, by Decca Plus. This is an amazing product that’s formulated to unclog the hair follicle, cleanse, and extract impurities from below the scalp.

My Top Picks For Protective Styles.

When it comes to choosing the best type of protective styling. I want you to think about the following. Pretty shouldn’t hurt. What do I mean by that? Black women in particular have been conditioned to think that if our hair and scalp don’t hurt after a braiding session then something is wrong. You want the exact opposite. Save your edges and protect your crown by making sure that the braids aren’t too tight. If you have to take pain relievers before or afer your install. It’s too tight, sis. I would reccommend the following. Crochet braids, knotless box braids, wigs ( that you can remove daily). The importance of these options is that you’re able to treat your scalp by cleansing, nourishing and moisturizing.

Will Your Hair Prevent You From Receiving A Job Or An Education?

Once again hair has been a hot topic in both the national and international press. No, it's  NOT about Kylie Jenner and her new hair color. Instead its about how your hair style can prevent you from getting a job or from receiving a well deserved education. 

On Thursday September 15th, the 11th U.S. Circuit Court of Appeals rejected a lawsuit that was  presented by the Equal Employment Opportunity Commission against a company who later terminated Ms. Jones for not complying with their policy. Catastrophe Management Solutions requires that employees be dressed and groomed " in a manner that projects a professional and business like image". When Ms. Jones decided not to remove her locks, the company than withdrew it's offer and she was terminated for not complying. This ruling allows employers to legally band hair styles such as locks. This could be the start to something even bigger in the future.

In my mind, I'm questioning what it actually means to "project a professional and business like image"? Perhaps it means that  my hair should be  poker board straight. You know, when I turn my head left and right, my hair moves with me type of thing! I wonder if the objection would've been the same if Ms. Jones had worn her hair in an afro or an intricately  braided style, or even  twists?

This same issue is happening to school age children, and yes even here in the Bluegrass State of Kentucky. This past July, parents and students of Butler Traditional High School in Louisville were informed of the new dress code policies. Students were no longer allowed to wear their hairstyles that were considered "extreme, distracting or attention-getting. The policy went on to state that "No dreadlocks, cornrolls(not my spelling), twists, mohawks, no jewelry worn in the hair. No braids will be allowed on males".  To be fair, the student handbook has now been updated.

It's been my personal experience that what is different always seems to draw attention and at times will be distracting. Of course, I'm speaking from experience. As a woman who loves hair and fashion, I'm constantly changing my look. I get the usual questions like, 'how are you able to  do so many different things with you hair'? Or, "the entire time I was sitting behind you I was so distracted by how beautiful your braids were!" There are some things that just can't be helped. It's legitimately in my DNA to have this love and passion for my  textured hair in whatever way it may come in.  Braids, locs, twist or even short cropped cuts on women wasn't something that  just recently came onto the scene.  It's always been apart of our beautiful and rich culture.

Yes, I can identify with the students at Butler High School  and in Pretoria, South Africa because I too was told that in order to fully participate in my cosmetology major, I would need to remove my braids. This was back in 2002. I'd just started my first few months of beauty school. My hair at the time was in braids, as it had been for the summer. When I asked why I had to do this, it was brought to my attention that it would allow me to fully participate with in my clinical.  As cosmetology students it was required we spend 300 hours practicing on each other.  My instructor  was basically telling me that I'll fail the course if I didn't comply and remove my braids so that my hair could be shampooed! As a 17 year old student, it left a major impression as you can still see is with me to this day! I remember going to the salon having my glorious afro relaxed in order to complete school. I had so many emotions going through my head at that time. Anger, sadness, confusion just to name a few.  

What has all of this taught me? In 2016 Afro textured hair is still and I'm assume will always be a topic for discussion and misunderstanding. It's unfortunate that our  beautiful crown of hair can prevent us from getting the job or education of a lifetime. As always we have to be twice as good, work twice as hard and be  twice as smart. 

-MD

Bronner Brothers International Hair Show 2016

Just last weekend my husband and I attended the Bronner Brother's Hair Show in Atlanta, Ga. It's officially been 4 years since the last time I attended the show. There have been  so many  positive changes for the good and I'm so happy that we were able to be apart of that!

This year the focus of course was on natural hair in all it's faboulous glory.. Some of my favorite classes were by Simone Hylton of Natural Trendsetters and also Christina Carsillo of Harmony Haarmony Hair Studio. First, let't talk about a few "golden nuggets" that were discovered last weekend that I MUST share with you! In the summer and winter seasons, I always recommend clients to give their hair a break.

This would be by putting your hair up into a protective style or using techniques that require less styling. You would be surprised how much your beautiful tresses would flourish and love you even more. Here's something to remember. Just because, you decide to put your into a protective style ( i.e. braids, weaves, etc) that DOESN'T mean that you can forget about your hair underneath. You still must keep your hair and scalp clean, a long with it staying very nourished.

For those of you who've had the opportunity to sit in my chair for a cut, will know that depending on your curl pattern I will sometimes cut your hair wet or dry. There are various reasons that I do this. The main reason is that I love to see how your hair naturally lives and reacts to products. After taking a Deva Cut inspired class Christina Carsillo does all of her cuts dry!  Her clients are a lot like mine. Curl patterns ranging from wavy to tightly afro.  I'm now inspired to step outside of my "comfort zone" and try new  hair cutting techniques. 

Last but not least, I want to talk a little bit about my new salon tools that will change your look and yes, you'll thank me for it. I happened to run into the owners and creators of Wrap-A-Loc. It's a revolutionary hair styling tool and technique that creates tight spiral curls on all types on all hair textures. The tool can be worn in the hair as a style when with water or setting lotion. Your locs will be the best styled in the room. The next new tool that is by Design Essential. It's called STS Smoothing System. This system is proven to temporarily straighten and smooth frizzy, multi-textured, naturally curly, transitioning and chemically treated hair. It allows me to enhance your natural curls or simply calm down the frizz. The best part is that it's so versatile

So, there you have it. Some of the highlights from my short trip to ATL! I look forward to answering your questions and helping you achieve your ultimate hair goals.

-MD